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So you want a FIXATIVE
A n d . . . It MUST be a spray. Polymer compatible…impossible. Until now.
I have been sitting on this product for almost a year. I was desperately looking for something to cover the metallic leafing pens. Everything caused the leaf to smear. Or to prevent the smearing the process of applying the products I tried was time-consuming and painstakingly, excruciatingly slooooow.
![IMAG001[1]](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_AMSgGyqrJvI/Sc1h0bJHBNI/AAAAAAAAAJo/o3yfno4RhTU/IMAG001%5B1%5D%5B6%5D.gif?imgmax=800 "IMAG001[1]")
![IMAG004[1]](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_AMSgGyqrJvI/Sc1h0uxIlmI/AAAAAAAAAJs/aM8MR12ax4w/IMAG004%5B1%5D%5B5%5D.jpg?imgmax=800 "IMAG004[1]")
![IMAG005[1]](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_AMSgGyqrJvI/Sc1h1LkD5tI/AAAAAAAAAJw/4_vaUg0BcsY/IMAG005%5B1%5D%5B5%5D.jpg?imgmax=800 "IMAG005[1]")
Enter ![IMAG006[1]](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_AMSgGyqrJvI/Sc1h1dZoIXI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/C12CGwidkek/s1600-h/IMAG006%5B1%5D%5B3%5D.jpg "IMAG006[1]")
PYM II ……
I tested this with the Krylon pens on various polymer clays. The test pieces have been sitting on my work table for the last many months. The Gold, Silver and Copper cannot be scraped off with a finger nail. The finish is durable and is not, to date, interacting with the clays.
Things to keep in mind:
Use in a well-ventilated space…it does have an odor, it does dissipate quickly.
It takes 24-48 hours for the fixative to cure.
I tried both the pump spray and the aerosol spray. Both work fine. I found the aerosol easier to apply with less drops.
I am absolutely delighted with the product and the developer. He is available by phone and email. And more than receptive to adjusting his product to your needs! The product as sold gives a slightly higher sheen to your piece when applied to polymer. Requests for different finishes (matte, high sheen, gloss, etc) are possible.
Visit http://www.precision-blue.com/ to purchase.
And for all of you who have been questioning how to apply a fixative/sealer to your inkjet transfers using parchment paper… this is the answer! I tried and it works beautifully!
Valerie (who finally got a modem! and is back online!!!)
12 comments:
Valarie, thank you for sharing this find with us!! It's on my "Must Have It" list. I added the info to my blog and linked back to you.
Always sharing something wonderful! Thanks Valerie.
Tonja and Marcia...
Thanks for visiting. The PYM II really is fantastic. I have been using it when I need to seal someting. And my son has a newspaper he wanted to preserve and we sealed that, water just beads on it!
Valerie
This is really cool info Valerie! I will pass it on! Too bad it only ships to US addresses though. That means I won't be able to get any until I go across the border myself. It is very good news though for those of you States side. Thanks for letting us know about it!
Hi Cindy,
Flammable liquids. Always a problem. Maybe if you contact them? Explain what it is you do for the community. I find them to be so very accommodating, there may be a way for them to send you the product. Definitely a must try!
Valerie
Valerie,
As always you are a genius and generous to boot. I love this product. I can also use it to seal water soluble dyes on my egg projects.
I am printing out this blog entry to bring to the guild show and tell tomorrow. THANK YOU!
Sarah
www.papcg.org
Sarah,
Give the Philly guild my warmest hello!
Valerie
Hello Valerie,
Can you use PYM II (now known as CI Superseal) on unbaked clay to prevent transferred images from smudging while you form the bead? If so, can you bake the clay with this stuff on it?
I got my can of Superseal from Sams Club online.
maryfaithpeace,
CI Superseal and PYM II are one and the same. The product is sold under both names depending on the market/distributor.
I have baked the sealant. I have not used it on raw clay. My images do not smudge. Smudging/distortion occurs when the image is allowed to sit on the clay for an extended period of time before curing. This gives the ink the time needed to begin to interact with the emulsifiers and liquefy. When clay with transferred images is manipulated while fresh (first 15 min to half hour) the images are stable.
If you use the sealant on raw clay, please let us know how it goes!
Valerie
OMG! You are right! When I first transferred the image onto the clay, I touched it and it DIDN'T smudge. However, an hour or so later, it started to look "wet" and when I touched it, it smudged!
OK, I will experiment with the Superseal and let you know.
Back...after a few days of testing. Here's what I found:
NO, Superseal sprayed on unbaked clay will **NOT** prevent the images from smudging. No help for it: you must work FAST (within 30 minutes) when using transferred images via Valerie's technique.
Superseal lightly sprayed (one pass) on unbaked clay, left to dry for 2-3 minutes, and then cured in the oven at manufacturer's recommended temperature settings (for me, Fimo @ 230F for 15 min) permanently seals the image on the clay. No rubbing or fingernail etching will scrape that image out once baked. Afterwards, you can choose to coat with Varathane or any sealant if you wish a glossy finish.
You can also spray (light pass) Superseal after baking the image and leave to dry for 24-48 hrs. This leaves a slightly more "tacky" feel to the image - nothing troublesome though. I find that I prefer spraying before baking.
I find that the images transferred via parchment are not as clear as the method I previously used, but it is cost-effective and relatively easy (there was still a learning curve, mind you). Thanks to all who contributed to this blog especially Valerie, who shared the technique with all!
maryfaithpeace,
Great research. Thanks so much for sharing/posting.
I think you will find the PYM II will dry over time. It does for me. And multiple coats will give more shine. PYM II tends to preserve the finish/texture it is sealing. With each layer of PYM II you are filling in the 'texture', creating a smoother surface, thus more shine.
More experimenting?
Thanks again,
Valerie
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